Who’s ready for a brand new Pineapple & Pine design?! We’ve got some beautiful summer wearable items all ready to go, and this month, we decided to include kids sizes. Our design team put in some extra time so that you could have the option to make a Summer Waves Top for your mini-me. My contribution to the set was the Summer Waves Tunic! We did this CAL back in July of 2020. But now you can find the full pattern for free below! So grab your crochet hooks and get ready to crochet the Summer Waves Tunic!


About the Summer Waves Tunic

This fun top was thought up as a part of a collaborative Crochet-a-Long design. We all worked from the same stitches to give unique approaches to a similar idea. My tunic design was meant to be worn over a swim suit for a fun beach day. It can also be worn as a tunic top or shortened (check out the Pattern Notes) for a regular top.

This pattern is designed with 2-4″ of positive ease. This slightly looser fit contributes to the lightweight, airy style. This top is also available in adult sizes; for the free pattern, click here!


Meet the Design Team

Carol Hladik, of Carol Hladik Designs, is our guest designer this month. She is a lover of everything crafty and crochet. She has been crocheting for over 20 years and began designing back in 2016. While she has a variety of fun crochet patterns on her blog, she is probably best known for her wearable blanket dresses. You can find her patterns on Etsy and Ravelry. And you can also find her work on her Facebook or Instagram page.

Sarah, of A Plush Pineapple, is the second designer in this month’s design team. You may remember her from the February Scarf CAL or the April Bag CAL. She likes to keep everything in her arena sunshine and pineapples. You can usually find her latest pineapple-y creations on her Instagram page.

Kelsie…that’s me! I’ll be rounding out this month’s design team. If you don’t know me yet, I’m Kelsie! I’m the maker and designer here at Crafting for Weeks. I like to play with color and texture to create visually interesting crochet designs. While you can find many of my designs here at my blog, you can keep an eye out for what’s coming up next my in Instagram page.


Summer Waves Tops

If you’re not familiar with Pineapple & Pine CAL, we like to choose a couple of stitches and make modifications of each pattern using those same stitches. Each designer did a different spin on a summer garment. And if you’re loving the kids versions, be sure check out the Summer Waves Adult Tops here!

The Cardi

The first modification is a short-sleeved cardigan. This lovely little cardi was designed by Carol. This classic style sweater boasts tons of texture and is perfect for summertime layering.

This is now a paid pattern that is available for purchase in Carol’s Ravelry or Etsy shop.

The Sweater

Next up is the sweater. This airy, long sleeved cardigan was designed by Sarah. Not only does it have that same fun texture, but it’s got a couple cool features…like hi-low panels and POCKETS! Everybody loves pockets.

This pattern is available for free on Sarah’s blog or for purchase in her shops.

The Tunic

Last, but not least is the tunic. This slightly-oversized pullover will make a perfect beach cover for your kiddos. Or stick it with cami and some shorts or leggings and they’ll have an adorable top.

You can purchase the PDF in my shops. Or keep scrolling for the free version below!


Measurements & Yardage

Paintbox DK Cotton

SizeBust (4″ positive ease)Length (Front Panel/Back Panel)Yardage
12-18 Months22-23”15”/17”435
225”16”/18”470
427”17”/19”505
629”18”/20”545
830”20”/22”630
1032”21”/23”675
1234”22”/24”725
1435.5”23”/25”775
1636.5”24”/26”825

Materials Needed

Paintbox Cotton Yarn (See Charts for Weight/Yardage)
Size H (5.0mm) Crochet Hook
Tapestry Needle
Measuring Tape
Scissors

Gauge

Open Wave Stitch – 11 stitches (chains don’t count) x 12 rows= 4” square
Trinity Stitch – 16 stitches + 16 rows = 4” square (Note: 4 rows trim = 1”)

Abbreviations

Ch – Chain 
St – Stitch(es)
Sk – Skip
Sc – Single Crochet
Dc – Double Crochet
Trinity Stitch
Open Waves Stitch

Notes

  • Chains at the beginning of the rows do not count as stitches throughout this pattern.
  • This pattern is written in increments of 10 + 3 stitches. To increase the length of the tunic, add stitches in increments of 10 (approx 2”) to the foundation chain.
  • When working the trinity stitch, tops of stitches and chain 1 spaces count as a stitch.
  • When working trinity stitch into open wave stitch, for the first row, you will work 2 “legs” of the trinity stitch into each chain 3 space. For best results, work into the chain spaces and not around them.
  • Pattern sizes are noted in the following manner (12-18 months, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16)

Special Stitches

The same three special stitches are used through all the all of the patterns. For a tutorial on each of these stitches, please click the corresponding link below.

Open Waves Stitch


TUNIC PATTERN

Section 1

PANEL 1
TRIM (Trinity Stitch)

Ch (144,154,164,174,194,204,214,224,234)

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook. *Pull up a loop in same ch as last stitch, then pull up a loop in each of the next two stitches (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Ch 1.* Repeat from * to * across until 2 stitches remain. Pull up a loop in same ch as last stitch, then pull up a loop in each of the next two stitches. Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Sc in last stitch (same space as previous stitch). (143,153,163,173,193,203,213,223,233)

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in first stitch. *Pull up a loop in same space as last stitch, then pull up a loop in top of the next stitch and in the ch space (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Ch 1.* Repeat from * to * across until 2 stitches remain. Pull up a loop in same stitch as last stitch, then pull up a loop in top of the next stitch and the ch space. Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Sc in last stitch (same space as previous stitch). (143,153,163,173,193,203,213,223,233)

Row 3-4: Repeat Row 2

BODY (Open Wave Stitch)

Row 5: Ch 2 and turn. *Dc 3, ch 3, sk 2 st, sc 3, ch 3, sk 2 st.* Repeat from * to * until 5 stitches remain. Ch 3, sk 2 st, dc 3. (87,93,99,105,117,123,129,135,141)


Section 2

Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. *Sc 3 in top of dc, ch 3, sk ch spaces, dc 3 in top of sc.* Repeat across until 3 stitches remain. Ch 3, sc 3 in top of dc. (87,93,99,105,117,123,129,135,141)

Row 7: Ch 2 and turn. *Dc 3 in top of sc, ch 3, sk ch spaces, sc 3 in top of dc.* Repeat across until 3 stitches remain. Ch 3, dc 3 in top of sc. (87,93,99,105,117,123,129,135,141)

Repeat Rows 6 -7 until work measures for a total of (13,14,16,17,18,20,21,22,23) rows of the wave stitch or until work measures approx. (5”,5.75”,6.25”,6.75”,7”,7.5”,8”,8.25”,8.5”) wide when lightly stretched. For more than positive ease, continue repeats until piece measures desired width.

TRIM (Trinity Stitch)

For the second set of trim, you will be working the trinity stitch. In Row 1, you will work 2 “legs” of the trinity stitch into each chain 3 space. Work into the first and second chain space and skip the third. To simplify reading, I will refer to all sc, dc, and the 2 ch spaces as “stitch” in this section. For best results, work into the chains and not the chain spaces. 

Row 1: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in first stitch. *Pull up a loop in same space as last stitch, then pull up a loop in top of the next two stitches (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Ch 1.* Repeat from * to * across until 2 stitches remain. Pull up a loop in same stitch as last stitch, then pull up a loop in top of the next two stitches. Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Sc in last stitch (same space as previous stitch). (143,153,163,173,193,203,213,223,233)

Row 2: Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in first stitch. *Pull up a loop in same space as last stitch, then pull up a loop in top of the next stitch and in the ch space (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Ch 1.* Repeat from * to * across until 2 stitches remain. Pull up a loop in same stitch as last stitch, then pull up a loop in top of the next stitch and the ch space. Yarn over and pull through 4 loops. Sc in last stitch (same space as previous stitch). (143,153,163,173,193,203,213,223,233)

Tie off and leave approx. 24-36” tail for seaming.

Section 3

Make a second panel following instructions from Sections 1 and 2.


Section 4

SEAMING
  1. Line up the panels so that the edges with 2 rows of trim are next to each other. One tail for seaming should be at each end of the panels. 
  2. Fold the pieces in half lengthwise, so that the top half (Front) is 2” higher that the bottom half (Back). Clip on outside edges using locking stitch markers or quilting clips to hold in place
  3. With a stitch marker or quilting clip, mark approx. where you would like the deepest point of the neckline to be in the Front. Using a long tail, seam from the bottom to the marked point. Leave yarn temporarily attached to customize fit.
  4. Turn piece over so that Back is facing up and repeat Step 3. (Note: the seam in the back will likely need to be slightly higher than the seam in the front.)
  5. Starting 4” from the bottom of the front panel, seam outside edge using the mattress stitch. Stop when you are approx. (5”,5.5”,6”,6.5”,7”,7.5”,8”,8.5”,9”)  inches from the top of the shoulder. Repeat on opposite edge.
  6. Optional: To adjust the depth of the V in the front and back panels, try on your garment. With yarn left from seaming in Steps 2 and 3, either continue seaming or remove stitches to leave a smaller or larger gap based on fit preference.

Written by

Kelsie

I'm a stay-at-home mom of 3 little ones that loves to create with yarn. I design crochet patterns, and create tutorials for fun crafts.