The Rustic Pines Stocking: A Free Crochet Pattern

I’m so excited to share a brand new pattern with you today! I recently designed the Rustic Pines Beanie & Cowl for a Pineapple & Pine Crochet-a-Long. The stitch was so much fun that I decided to make another piece to add to the collection. At this time of year, a Christmas pattern only seemed fitting. So today I’m sharing the Rustic Pines Stocking with you all!

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About the Collection

The Rustic Pines Collection started out as a four-piece accessory collection. It included a beanie and cowl designed by me. And a earwarmer and set of mittens designed by Sarah of A Plush Pineapple. We highlighted one pattern a week for a recent Pineapple and Pine Crochet-a-Long. We had so much participation and positive feedback on the patterns and the stitches, that we decided to expand the collection a bit.

Find the Free Beanie & Cowl Pattern Here!

Find the Free Headband & Mittens Here!

Since it was fall/winter season when we were designing this set, we decided to add a few wintery patterns to our current set. This time around, we aimed for home decor. I designed the Rustic Pines Stocking. Keep scrolling to find the free pattern. And Sarah created the Rustic Pines Throw Pillow.

Click Here for the Free Rustic Pines Pillow Pattern!

About the Yarn

The Rustic Pines Stocking was designed with Brava Worsted yarn from WeCrochet. This is a great budget-friendly option for worsted weight yarn. AND it comes in so many colors! I also used this yarn for the Rustic Pines Beanie & Cowl. It’s soft and easy to work with, and I actually use it quite a bit.

While I think most worsted weight yarns will work for this, Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn has a pretty similar feel to the Brava yarn. You could even size up to bulky yarn for a more oversized style stocking! And our course, one of my all time favorite worsted weight yarns is Heartland Yarn from Lion Brand. It’s a little more expensive than Brave, but the colorways are stunning.

The Pine Stitch

The Rustic Pines Stocking uses the Pine Stitch that Sarah and I thought up for the Crochet-a-Long. This is essentially a series of cable stitches worked in groups to create the effect of trees. If you’ve ever worked with the Diamond Trellis stitch, you’ll pick this stitch up in no time! I’ve got some stitch descriptions for you below, but you might also like checking out this tutorial video to help you get started.

Love it?! Pin It for Later!

Let’s Get Started…

Materials Needed

2 Skeins of Brava Worsted (or comparable worsted weight yarn)
- Approx 215 yds of Main Color
- Approx 100 yds Contrasting Color
Size I (5.5mm) crochet hook
Measuring Tape
Tapestry needle
Scissors

Skill Level

Intermediate

Gauge

Since a variety of stitches are used throughout, gauge is based on the most commonly used stitch combo. (Note: Gauge is not essential to this project, however finished stocking may vary in size)

(With I hook) Ch 20, dc in 3rd ch from hook. Dc across. Alternate sc row and dc rows.

13 st x 10 rows = 4” square

Finished Measurements: (Laid flat)

6”w x 18”h

Stitches Used

Magic Circle
Sl St – Slip Stitch
Ch – Chain
SC – Single Crochet
HDC – Half Double Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
FPTR – Front Post Treble Crochet
FPTr3Tog – Front Post Treble Crochet Three Together

Notes

This pattern is worked in a combination of rows and rounds. It is recommended that you use a stitch marker when working rows to mark starting stitch.
Chains at the beginning of rows/rounds do not count as a stitch.
This pattern is written in increments of 4 stitches + 1. If you choose to adjust the stitch count, your total stitch count for the arch/body section will need to be a multiple of 4 + 1 stitches.
Pattern is divided into sections. Row/Round count will restart in each section.
Stocking is written with two colors. If you would prefer a solid color stocking, use same color throughout.

Special Stitches

Crunch Stitch:

The crunch stitch is a series of alternating half double crochet and slip stitches. It should be worked back and forth in rows to achieve its texture. When starting a new row, you will need to make sure that slip stitches are worked in the half double crochets from the previous row and half double crochets are worked in the slip stitches from the previous row.

Ex: Hdc, Sl st, hdc, sl st, hdc. Ch 1 and turn. Sl st, hdc, sl st, hdc, sl st.

Pine Stitch:

The pine cables stitch is achieved by working groups of front post treble crochet stitches to create the effect of trunks and tree branches. To begin you will setup for cable stitches by working a row of single crochets, followed by a row of double crochets. You will then work front post treble crochet stitches around the noted single crochets from the setup row to create trunks. A row of double crochets will be worked between each set of cables. Then you will be working “front post treble crochet three together” around noted single crochets and treble crochets from the previous cable row.

For a video on this technique, please visit https://youtu.be/hcbx_QglF_c

Front Post Treble Crochet Three Together (FPRTr3Tog):

Yarn over twice, insert hook around post of first noted stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two, yarn over pull through two again (two loops on hook). Then yarn over twice, insert hook around post of second noted stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two, yarn over pull through two again (three loops on hook). Yarn over twice, insert hook around post of third noted stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through two, yarn over pull through two again (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all four loops on hook.

(Note: When working the FPTr3Tog above another row of FPTr3Tog stitches, only work under the center post on your second FPTr of the group.)

PATTERN

TOE

With 5.5mm hook, begin with contrasting color and a magic circle.

Round 1: Hdc 9 in the magic circle. Sl st to first hdc to join. (9)

Round 2: 2 Hdc in each stitch around. Sl st to first hdc to join. (18)

Round 3: *Hdc, 2 hdc in next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first hdc to join. (27)

Round 4: *Hdc 2, 2 hdc in next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first hdc to join. (36)

Round 5: *Hdc 3, 2 hdc in next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first hdc to join. (45)

Round 6-8: Hdc in each stitch around. Sl st to first hdc to join. (45)

ARCH

CRUNCH STITCH SECTION

This section uses a combination of half double crochets and slip stitches to create a subtle rippling texture on both sides of your work. It is recommended that you use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of your row.

Switch to Main Color.

Row 1: Ch 1. Hdc in first stitch and mark with stitch marker. *Sl st in following stitch, hdc in next stitch.* Repeat from * to end of the row. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (45)

Row 2: Ch 1 and TURN. Sl st in first stitch and mark stitch with stitch marker. *Hdc in following stitch, sl st in next stitch.* Repeat from * to end of the row. Join with sl st to top of first sl st.(45)

PINE CABLES SECTION 1

The Pine Cables Stitch can be worked in rows or rounds. For this pattern, I have opted to work in rounds. Please reference SPECIAL TECHNIQUES section for further help with this stitch.

Round 1: Ch 1 and TURN. Sc in first stitch and each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of first sc. (45)

Round 2: Ch 2. Dc in first stitch and each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (45)

Round 3: Ch 1. Sc 2. FPTr in 3rd sc from Round 1. Sk 1 st on current row. Sc 3. *Sk 3 sc from Round 1 then FPTr around next sc. Sk 1 st on current row then sc 3.* Repeat from * to * until 2 stitches remain. Sc 2. Join with sl st to top of first sc. [34 sc, 11 FPTr]

Round 4: Ch 2. Dc in first stitch and each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (45)

Round 5: Ch 1. Sc 2. FPTr3Tog beginning with first sc two rows prior, then around FPTr from 2 rows prior, then skip 1 sc from two rows prior and work last FPTr around the next sc. Sk 1 stitch on current row. *Sc 3. FPTr3Tog beginning with the same sc as the previous FPTr3Tog, then around FPTr from 2 rows prior, then skip 1 sc from two rows prior and work last FPTr around the next sc.* Repeat from * to * until 2 stitches remain. Sc 2. Join with sl st to top of first sc. [34 sc, 11 FPTr3Tog]

Round 6: Ch 2. Dc in first stitch and each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (45)

Round 7: Repeat Round 5

Round 8: Ch 2. Dc in first stitch and each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (45)

Round 9: Ch 1. Sc 2. FPTr3Tog beginning with first sc two rows prior, then around FPTr from 2 rows prior, then skip 1 sc from two rows prior and work last FPTr around the next sc. Sk 1 stitch on current row. *Sc 7 on current row. FPTr3Tog beginning with sc from 2 rows prior that is 2 stitches before the post stitch, then around FPTr from 2 rows prior, then skip 1 sc from two rows prior and work last FPTr around the next sc. Sk 1 stitch on current row.* Repeat from * to * around until 2 stitches remain. Sc 2 Join with sl st to top of first sc. [39 sc, 6 FPTr3Tog]

CRUNCH STITCH SECTION 2

You will now do another section of crunch stitch. Remember this stitch section will be worked back and forth in rows. It is recommended that you use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the row.

Row 1: Ch 1. Hdc in first stitch and mark with stitch marker. *Sl st in following stitch, hdc in next stitch.* Repeat from * to end of the row. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (45)

HEEL

Switch to Contrasting Color, leaving Main Color attached. Start with a long tail (approx. 12”).

Row 1: Ch 1. Hdc 18. (18)

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Hdc2tog, hdc 14, hdc2tog. (16)

Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Hdc2tog, hdc 12, hdc2tog. (14)

Row 4: Ch 1 and turn. Hdc2tog, hdc 10, hdc2tog. (12)

Row 5: Ch 1 and turn. Hdc2tog, hdc 8, hdc2tog. (10)

Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. 2 Hdc in first st, hdc 8, 2 hdc in last st. (12)

Row 7: Ch 1 and turn. 2 Hdc in first st, hdc 10, 2 hdc in last st. (14)

Row 8: Ch 1 and turn. 2 Hdc in first st, hdc 12, 2 hdc in last st. (16)

Row 9: Ch 1 and turn. 2 Hdc in first st, hdc 14, 2 hdc in last st. (18)

Tie off leaving long tail for seaming. With right side out and heel facing you, fold top half of heel flap towards you and down over the bottom half. Wrong side of heel should be facing out. Using the starting tail and a tapestry needle, whip stitch the right side of the heel closed. Insert hook into first stitch of the CRUNCH STITCH SECTION 2, Row 2 and the first stitch of Row 9, then pull up a loop of the main color left there before the HEEL section.

With Main color.

Row 10: Ch 1. Hdc in first stitch, sl st in next stitch. *Hdc, sl st*. Repeat from * to * across top of heel. (18)

Row 11: Ch 1 and turn. Hdc in first stitch, sl st in next stitch. *Hdc, sl st*. Repeat from * to * across top of heel. (18)

BODY

PINE CABLES SECTION 2

The Pine Stitch can be worked in rows or rounds. For this pattern, I have opted to work in rounds. Please reference SPECIAL TECHNIQUES section for further help with this stitch.

Continue with main color.

Round 1: Ch 1 and TURN. Sc in first stitch and each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of first sc. (45)

(Note: After completing HEEL section, you will need to sc across the top of the heel flap then locate the next stitch from the ARCH to continue working around. After completing Round 1, use your long tail to whip stitch the left side of the heel closed the same way you closed the right side.)

Round 2: Ch 2. Dc in first stitch and each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (45)

Round 4: Ch 2. Dc in first stitch and each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (45)

Round 6: Ch 2. Dc in first stitch and each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (45)

Round 7: Repeat Round 5

Round 8: Ch 2. Dc in first stitch and each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (45)

Round 9: Ch 1. Sc 6. FPTr3Tog beginning with sc from 2 rows prior that is 2 stitches before the post stitch, then around FPTr from 2 rows prior, then skip 1 sc from two rows prior and work last FPTr around the next sc. Sk 1 stitch on current row. Sc 3 on current row. FPTr3Tog in same manner. *Sc 7. FPTr3Tog, sk 1 st, sc 3, FPTr3Tog* Repeat from * to * around until 2 stitches remain. Sc 2. Join with sl st to top of first sc. [34 sc, 11 FPTr3Tog]

Round 10: Ch 2. Dc in first stitch and each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (45)

Round 11: Ch 1. Sc 6. FPTr3Tog beginning with sc from 2 rows prior that is 2 stitches before the post stitch, then around FPTr from 2 rows prior, then skip 1 sc from two rows prior and work last FPTr around the next sc. Sk 1 stitch on current row. Sc 3 on current row. FPTr3Tog in same manner. *Sc 7. FPTr3Tog, sk 1 st, sc 3, FPTr3Tog* Repeat from * to * around until 2 stitches remain. Sc 2. Join with sl st to top of first sc. [38 sc, 7 FPTr3Tog]

Round 12: Ch 2. Dc in first stitch and each stitch around. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (45)

Round 13: Ch 1. Sc 6. FPTr3Tog beginning with sc from 2 rows prior that is 2 stitches before the post stitch, then around FPTr from 2 rows prior, then skip 1 sc from two rows prior and work last FPTr around the next sc. Sk 1 stitch on current row. *Sc 11 on current row. FPTr3Tog in same manner. Skip 1 stitch on current row.* Repeat from * to * around until 6 stitches remain. Sc 6. Join with sl st to top of first sc. [41 sc, 4 FPTr3Tog]

Repeat each of the following sections one time:

CRUNCH STITCH SECTION 2

PINE CABLES SECTION 2

CRUNCH SECTION 2

CUFF

Switch to Contrasting Color.

Round 1: Ch 1. Sk first stitch (stitch with the join). Hdc in next stitch and each stitch around. Hdc in the sl st join from the previous row. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (45)

Round 2-4: Repeat Round 1

Round 5: Ch 1. Sk first stitch (stitch with the join). Hdc in next 9 stitches. Ch 20 to create hanging loop. Hdc in next stitch and each stitch around. Hdc in the sl st join from the previous row. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (45 hdc, 20 ch)

Round 6-10: Repeat Round 1.

Round 11: (Optional space for tie, if you do not want to add a tie, simply repeat Round 1 for the last two rounds.) Ch 1. Sk first stitch (stitch with the join). *Hdc in next 3 stitches. Ch 1. Sk 1 stitch* Repeat from * to * around. Hdc in the sl st join from the previous row. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (45)

Round 12: Ch 1. Sk first stitch (stitch with the join). *Hdc in next stitch 3 stitches. Hdc in ch space.* Repeat from * to * around. Hdc in the sl st join from the previous row. Join with sl st to top of first hdc. (45)

Tie off and weave in ends. Optional: Block your finished piece.

FINISHING

Using color of choice, chain approx 120 stitches to create cord for cuff.
Fold top half of CUFF down over the bottom half. Insert your crochet hook between the 9th and 10th stitches of CUFF Round 8. Grab hanging loop chain and pull to outside of stocking.
Weave chain cord in and out through the chain spaces from Round 11 of the CUFF.
Attach mini poms to the end of the chain cord.

Final Thoughts

I hope you had fun with this stocking. Crocheting Christmas stockings was one of the first things I did when I started my little business, so it’s pretty fun to be able to share these types of patterns with you all. Be sure to tag me in your Rustic Pines Stocking makes either on Facebook or Instagram at @craftingforweeks. And use hashtag #rusticpinesstocking as well!

If you’re looking for more Christmas patterns, check out the Luxe Leopard Stocking or the Luxe Leopard Ornament!

Tap the photo to head to the free pattern!

Until next time, Happy Crafting!