Crochet a Lacy Summer Sweater – Free Pattern
The Ocean’s Breath Cardi has finally found its home on the Crafting for Weeks blog! I designed this pattern as a guest designer for Joy of Motion Crochet a few years ago, and decided she needs to live here to with the rest of the Ocean’s Breath Collection. This is one of my favorite summer sweaters and for good reason. This airy summer piece is perfect for layering and will be a welcome addition to your spring, summer, and dare I say, fall wardrobes!
Before you Begin…
You can find the ad-free PDF version of this pattern in my Ravelry shop or my Etsy shop. For the free version, keep scrolling!
The original yarn used for this piece (Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend) has been discontinued, BUT I picked a few great substitutes for you! Shop Cotlin, 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Cotton DK or CoBoo! (Pssst…Keep scrolling to read why I picked these and get some ideas on your own yarn subs!)
You’re also going to need 6.5mm crochet hook size. Check out these Size K Crochet Hooks!
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About the Pattern
The Ocean’s Breath Cardi may just be your new favorite layering piece for spring and summer. This short-sleeved cardigan is slightly oversized and has beautiful lace work combined with textured star stitches. And add some optional fringe for a boho, festival vibe.
The Ocean’s Breath Cardi is an intermediate crochet pattern. It is written for sizes XS-5X and has approximately 4-6″ of positive ease. This sweater is designed to fall just past the hip, but you can easily adjust the length of your “cardi” by changing the number of pattern rows.
Love it?! Pin it for Later!
Check out the Ocean’s Breath Collection
The Ocean’s Breath Collection all shares the same dreamy stitch combination. This pattern series is designed to be reminiscent of macrame. The series currently includes six patterns, most of which are completely free right here on my blog. You can find the Ocean’s Breath wall-hanging, key fobs, table runner and market bag by clicking the button below. And check out the yoga bag in my Etsy shop and coming to the blog in spring.
About the Yarn
The Ocean’s Breath Cardi was originally designed with Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend yarn (shown in color Whipped Cream). Sadly, this particular yarn is discontinued, but don’t let that scare you off the design. You can substitute any DK (CYC weight 3) yarn in it’s place!
When you’re choosing a yarn substitute for this project, I recommend something with cotton. Not only is cotton great for warm-weather garments, but its also not going to stretch out as much as a plain acrylic yarn might. Because this garment is already slightly oversized, a cotton yarn will help the finished piece hold its shape a little better.
I’ve picked a few cotton or cotton-blend DK yarns that I personally like to work with to help you pick a great yarn substitute, but if you need more ideas check out Yarnsub.com.
Stitches Used
The Ocean’s Breath Cardi uses two stitch combinations. I consider them both intermediate, but I’ve seen a few adventurous beginners master them quickly.
Star stitch
The first stitch that you should be familiar with for this sweater is the star stitch. The star stitch is used along the bottom border and around the sleeves. I’ve got a full stitch tutorial for the star stitch broken down step-by-step. Or if you rather just get a quick visual refresher, you can check out my video tutorial.
lacework
The second portion of this garment features lacework. This lacework is made up of single crochet, double crochet and chain stitches. If you know these stitches, I think you’ll be able to work your way through the lace portion of this sweater. The most challenging aspect of lacework, in my opinion, is learning how to read it from the pattern. With this in mind, I am putting together a video tutorial for 3-strand lace and will link it here when it’s completed. If you’re struggling with reading, try pairing reading the written pattern with watching the tutorial. After a few rows, you’ll likely start seeing the lace pattern and be able to work without even reading the pattern anymore.
Purchase the Ad-free Printable PDF
Before we jump into the free version of this pattern, you can also purchase the ad-free, printable PDF version of this pattern. The ads on my website help me be able to offer these patterns to you free for use. But if you’d rather avoid them or just like having a printed version of your crochet patterns, you can purchase this pattern on Etsy or Ravelry. Click below to shop!
Let’s Get Started…
Materials Needed
860-1420 yds of Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend (or other DK cotton or cotton blend)
Size K (6.5mm) crochet hook
Tape Measure
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Stitch Markers
Quilting Clips or Locking Stitch Markers (optional)
Stitches Used
Ch – Chain
Sc – Single Crochet
Dc – Double Crochet
Sl St – Slip Stitch
Hdc – Half Double Crochet
Star Stitch
Skill Level
Intermediate
Finished Measurements
| Size | Finished Bust (Includes 4-6″ of positive ease) | Finished Length | Approx Yardage |
|---|---|---|---|
| X-Small | 34″ | 30″ | 860 |
| Small | 38″ | 30″ | 920 |
| Medium | 42″ | 32″ | 980 |
| Large | 46″ | 32″ | 1050 |
| X-Large | 50″ | 32″ | 1120 |
| 2X-Large | 54″ | 32″ | 1200 |
| 3X-Large | 58″ | 34″ | 1280 |
| 4X-Large | 62″ | 34″ | 1350 |
| 5X-Large | 66″ | 34″ | 1440 |
Note: Measurements are without fringe or star stitch border; star stitch border adds about 1.5”. Yardage is without fringe, fringe requires an additional 95-180 yds
Gauge
Ch 18, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each ch across. Follow BODY SECTION directions for Rows 4-10. The following swatch should measure 4 1/2” wide and 3” tall. Measurement should be taken after blocking swatch.
Notes
- Chains at the beginning of the rows do not count as a stitch throughout this pattern.
- Pattern is written in multiples of 8 + 1.
- Some shorthand elements are used in this pattern. 2 Hdc means to work two Half double crochet stitches in the next stitch, while Hdc 2 means to work one Half double crochet stitch in each of the next two stitches.
- When working the LACE SECTION, you will be skipping stitches and using chains to create the open pattern. Only single crochet and double crochet stitches are included in the row count..
- This pattern is written with 4-6” of positive ease for a slightly oversized fit.
- Due to the nature of the lace, will lose approx. 8-14” of width from your starting row as you work this cardigan. The star stitches along the bottom will help retain some of the width along the hip and give this cardigan some natural shaping. If you do not want this shaping, omit the bottom border of star stitches.
- Sizes are written as follows (X-Small, Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
- For help with the star stitch, please visit https://youtu.be/S9q4YTqOh4E.
Pattern
BODY SECTION
With K Hook.
Row 1: Ch (138, 154, 170, 186, 202, 218, 234, 250, 266). Sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sc in each ch st across. (137, 153, 169, 185, 201, 217, 233, 249, 265)
[Optional Note: To omit star stitch border along bottom, skip to Row 4.]
Row 2: Complete a row of star stitches doing the following.
Ch 3. Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Insert hook into next ch, pull up a loop. Insert hook and pull up a loop over next 3 sc st. (6 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. Ch 1 to close star stitch (eye of star stitch).
Insert hook into eye of star stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook between the last two spikes of the previous star stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook in the same stitch as the last spike of the previous star stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook and pull up a loop over next 2 sc stitches. (6 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. Ch 1 to close star stitch.
Repeat across until you finish the last star stitch. Hdc in same stitch as last star. ([68,76,84,92,100,108,116,124,132] star stitches, 1 Hdc)
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. 2Hdc in the eye of each star stitch across. Hdc in top of last star stitch. (137, 153, 169, 185, 201, 217, 233, 249, 265)
Row 4: Ch 1. Sc 3. *Ch 5, Sk 3 st, Sc 5.* Repeat from * to * until 6 sc st remain. Ch 5, Sk 3 st, Sc 3. [NOTE: from this point forward stitch counts only include sc or dc stitches] (86, 96, 106, 116, 126, 136, 146, 156, 166)
Row 5: Ch 1 and turn. Sc 2. *Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 5 space, Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 3.* Repeat from * to * until 4 sc st remain. Sk 1 st, Ch 3, Sc 1 in the Ch 5 space, Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 2. (69, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109, 117, 126, 134)
Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. *Sc 1. Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 1, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Ch 3, Sk 1 st.* Repeat from *to* across. Sc 1 in the last stitch. (69, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109, 117, 126, 134)
Row 7: Ch 5 (counts as Dc + Ch 2) and turn. *Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 3, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Ch 5, Sk 1 st* Repeat from * to * until 4 sc st remain. Ch 5. Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 3, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space. Ch 2. Dc in the last st. (87 97, 107, 117, 127, 137, 147, 157, 167)
Row 8: Ch 1 and turn. Sc 1 in the Dc from previous row. *Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 3, Sk 1 st, Ch 3, Sc 1 in Ch 5 space.* Repeat from * to * until 5 sc st remain. Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 3, Ch 3. Sk 1 st. Sc in the 3rd ch of the ch 5 from the previous row. (69, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109, 117, 126, 134)
Row 9: Ch 1 and turn. Sc 1, Sc 1 in Ch 3 space. *Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1, Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 1, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space.* Repeat from * until 4 sc st remain. Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1, Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 1. (69, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109, 117, 126, 134)
Row 10: Ch 1 and turn. Sc 2, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space. *Ch 5, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 3, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space.* Repeat from * until 3 sc st remain. Ch 5, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 2. (86, 96, 106, 116, 126, 136, 146, 156, 166)
Row 11-63: Repeat Rows 5-10 [9 times] ending on a Repeat of Row 9.
Note: At this point, you can add extra rows for a longer cardigan. The top of the Body Section will fall right below the bust. If customizing the length of this sweater, measure from just below the bust, to the length you would like your cardigan to be. Continue repeats until the Body Section reaches this length, being sure to end on a Row 9 Repeat.
Do not tie off. Continue to PANEL 1.
SPLITTING FOR SLEEVES
After completing your last repeat of Row 9 from BODY SECTION, you will count over a designated number of stitches, and place a stitch marker according to size. It should be the center stitch of a 3 sc group. Repeat on opposite edge.
Starting on edge, complete FRONT PANEL on each side stopping on marked stitch.
Starting in marked stitch (same stitch as FRONT PANELS), work across from stitch marker to stitch marker to complete BACK PANEL.
PANEL 1
Count over (13, 17, 17, 21, 21, 25, 25, 29, 29) sc stitches from the edge and place a stitch marker. Continue working with yarn from BODY SECTION and stopping on the marked stitch.
Row 64: Ch 1 and turn. Sc 2, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space. *Ch 5, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 3, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space.* Repeat from * until 3 sc st remain. Ch 5, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 2. (16, 21, 21, 26, 26, 31, 31, 36, 36)
Row 65: Ch 1 and turn. Sc 2. *Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 5 space, Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 3.* Repeat from * to * until 4 sc st remain. Sk 1 st, Ch 3, Sc 1 in the Ch 5 space, Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 2. (13, 17, 17, 21, 21, 25, 25, 29, 29)
Row 66: Ch 1 and turn. *Sc 1. Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 1, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Ch 3, Sk 1 st.* Repeat from *to* across. Sc 1 in the last stitch. (13, 17, 17, 21, 21, 25, 25, 29, 29)
Row 67: Ch 5 (counts as Dc + Ch 2) and turn. *Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 3, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Ch 5, Sk 1 st* Repeat from * to * until 4 sc st remain. Ch 5. Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 3, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space. Ch 2. Dc in the last st. (17, 22, 22, 27, 27, 32, 32, 37, 37)
Row 68: Ch 1 and turn. Sc 1 in the Dc from previous row. *Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 3, Sk 1 st, Ch 3, Sc 1 in Ch 5 space.* Repeat from * to * until 5 sc st remain. Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 3, Ch 3. Sk 1 st. Sc in the 3rd ch of the ch 5 from the previous row. (13, 17, 17, 21, 21, 25, 25, 29, 29)
Row 69: Ch 1 and turn. Sc 1, Sc 1 in Ch 3 space. *Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1, Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 1, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space.* Repeat from * to * until 4 sc st remain. Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1, Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 1. (13, 17, 17, 21, 21, 25, 25, 29, 29)
Rows 70-(83, 83, 89, 89, 89, 89, 95, 95, 95): Repeat Rows 64-69 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) more times.
Row (84, 84, 90, 90, 90, 90, 96, 96, 96): Ch 1 and turn. Sc 2, Sc 2 in the Ch 3 space. *Sc 1, Sc 2 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 3, Sc 2 in the Ch 3 space.* Repeat from *to* until 3 sc st remain. Sc 1, sc 2 in Ch 3 space, sc in last 2 sts. Tie off leaving long tail. (25, 33, 33, 41, 41, 49, 49, 57, 57)
PANEL 2
Attach yarn to opposite edge. Repeat PANEL 1 directions.
BACK PANEL
Attach yarn in the same stitch as the right stitch marker. Working in the same stitch as the front panel, work across until you reach the left stitch marker.
Row 64: Ch 1 and turn. Sc 2, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space. *Ch 5, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 3, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space.* Repeat from * until 3 sc st remain. Ch 5, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 2. (56, 56, 66, 66, 76, 76, 86, 86, 96)
Row 65: Ch 1 and turn. Sc 2. *Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 5 space, Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 3.* Repeat from * to * until 4 sc st remain. Sk 1 st, Ch 3, Sc 1 in the Ch 5 space, Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 2. (45, 45, 53, 53, 61, 61, 69, 69, 77)
Row 66: Ch 1 and turn. *Sc 1. Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 1, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Ch 3, Sk 1 st.* Repeat from *to* across. Sc 1 in the last stitch. (45, 45, 53, 53, 61, 61, 69, 69, 77)
Row 67: Ch 5 (counts as Dc + Ch 2) and turn. *Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 3, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Ch 5, Sk 1 st* Repeat from * to * until 4 sc st remain. Ch 5. Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 3, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space. Ch 2. Dc in the last st. (57, 57, 67, 67, 77, 77, 87, 87, 97)
Row 68: Ch 1 and turn. Sc 1 in the Dc from previous row. *Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 3, Sk 1 st, Ch 3, Sc 1 in Ch 5 space.* Repeat from * to * until 5 sc st remain. Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 3, Ch 3. Sk 1 st. Sc in the 3rd ch of the ch 5 from the previous row. (45, 45, 53, 53, 61, 61, 69, 69, 77)
Row 69: Ch 1 and turn. Sc 1, Sc 1 in Ch 3 space. *Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1, Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 1, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space.* Repeat from * to * until 4 sc st remain. Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1, Ch 3, Sk 1 st, Sc 1 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 1. (45, 45, 53, 53, 61, 61, 69, 69, 77)
Rows 70-(83, 83, 89, 89, 89, 89, 95, 95, 95): Repeat Rows 76-81 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) more times.
Row (84, 84, 90, 90, 90, 90, 96, 96, 96): Ch 1 and turn. Sc 2, Sc 2 in the Ch 3 space. *Sc 1, Sc 2 in the Ch 3 space, Sc 3, Sc 2 in the Ch 3 space.* Repeat from * to * until 2 sc st remain. Sc 2 in the last two stitches. Tie off. (89, 89, 105, 105, 121, 121, 137, 137, 153)
SEAMING
Fold the Front Panels over the Back Panel and clip in place. The garment should be right side out and the star stitches visible.
With garment facing right side out, line the stitches up along the top edge and seam together using the mattress stitch. Repeat on opposite side.
Leave stitch marker in place to work sleeves.
SLEEVES
You will be doing a row of star stitches around the sleeves. You will be working in rounds for the sleeve trim. With the cardigan right side out and front panel up, you will attach yarn at the first row of the front panel at the right sleeve split. Then you will do an odd number of single crochet around the edge. To do this you will work one single crochet in each row that begins with a single crochet and two single crochets in rows that start with a double crochet. You will work all the way around until you reach the bottom of the back panel. Then work one single crochet in the stitch with the stitch marker. You will finish by slip stitching to the first single crochet. For the left sleeve, with back panel up, you will attach yarn at the first row of the back panel and work around in the same manner, finishing with one single crochet in the stitch with the stitch marker.
Round 1: Attach yarn and work a row of sc around the outside edge of the sleeve as described above. Sl st in first st to join. (Odd number of stitches)
Round 2: Complete a round of star stitches doing the following.
Ch 3. Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Insert hook into next ch, pull up a loop. Insert hook and pull up a loop over next 3 sc st. (6 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. Ch 1 to close star stitch (eye of star stitch).
Insert hook into eye of star stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook between the last two spikes of the previous star stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook in the same stitch as the last spike of the previous star stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook and pull up a loop over next 2 sc stitches. (6 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. Ch 1 to close star stitch.
Repeat around until you finish the last star stitch. Hdc in same stitch as last star. Sl st to top of ch 3.
Round 3: Ch 1. Work 2 Hdc in the eye of each star stitch around. Hdc in top of last hdc stitch. Sl st to first hdc to join. Tie off and weave ends.
Repeat with second sleeve. Tie off and weave ends.
TRIM
With garment right side out and front panels up, attach yarn at the bottom corner of the right front panel. Single crochet up the front right panel, across the top of the back panel, and down the left panel. The placement of your single crochet will go as follows: one in the first row, three single crochets across the star stitch rows. Then you will work along the edge the same way you did the sleeves: one single crochet in each row that begins with a single crochet and two single crochets in rows that start with a double crochet. The number of stitches is not essential as we will make an adjustment for the number of stitches in Row 2.
Row 1: Attach yarn and work a row of sc around the right front panel, in each sc across the top of the back panel and down the left front panel as described above.
Row 2: Complete a row of star stitches doing the following.
Ch 3. Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Insert hook into next ch, pull up a loop. Insert hook and pull up a loop over next 3 sc st. (6 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. Ch 1 to close star stitch (eye of star stitch).
Insert hook into eye of star stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook between the last two spikes of the previous star stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook in the same stitch as the last spike of the previous star stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook and pull up a loop over next 2 sc stitches. (6 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. Ch 1 to close star stitch.
Repeat across until you have either 4 or 5 stitches remaining. This will depend on whether the number of single crochets from row 1 was even or odd.
For 5 stitches:Complete an “extended star stitch”. Insert hook into eye of star stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook between the last two spikes of the previous star stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook in the same stitch as the last spike of the previous star stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook and pull up a loop over next 3 sc stitches. (7 loops on hook) Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook. Ch 1 to close star stitch. Then complete one standard star stitch over the last two stitches. Hdc in same stitch as last star. Sl st to top of ch 3.
For 4 stitches: Complete two standard star stitches. Hdc in same stitch as last star. Sl st to top of ch 3.
Row 3: Ch 1. Work 2 Hdc in the eye of each star stitch across. Hdc in top of last stitch.
Tie off and weave ends. Block your sweater to open up lacework.
Final Thoughts
I hope you loved this sweater as much as I do. Something about that lace and star stitch combo always has be coming back to admire this one. Be sure to block your work after you finished to really open up the spaces in the lace section and emphasize the beauty of the stitch. And also, be sure to tag me in your finished makes! I love to see what you all create from my patterns. You can tag me @craftingforweeks on Facebook or on Instagram. And use the hashtag #oceansbreathcardi for a chance to be featured!
Until next time, Happy Crafting!
